THE PHANTOM THEATRES OF DOWNTOWN L.A.

A hundred years ago, Downtown L.A. was a West Coast version of Midtown Manhattan, or downtown Chicago.  The sidewalks were full of people, the streets were full of trams and cars.

And with the support of cinema industry, Broadway Los Angeles became the cinema version of Broadway New York.

Big glamorous movie theatres started to appear in 1910, and soon there was a string of them. Twelve movie palaces between Third and Ninth Street, on South Broadway, and a few more in the surrounding streets. Los Angeles, entertainment capital of the world. The star-studded premieres were divided between theatres in Hollywood and downtown. 

But concentration in L.A did not work out.  Starting with Miracle Mile, alternative urban centers appeared in different parts of the L.A. basin, and people had the option of avoiding Downtown L.A. if they wanted.....and they did. 

And if Downtown L.A. today is relatively unpopular for many reasons, Broadway is even worse. It is frankly considered one of the most rundown areas of downtown L.A. 

One of the biggest victims was those famous movie theatres.  All those regular customers disappeared into the residential wilderness. For years Broadway survived offering services to the Latino community, and they are still at it today. Some are churches, some are stores. Some are nightclubs.....Survivors include the Orpheum and the Mayan. 

 But the movies? the star studded premieres?   They are ghosts of a past that will not return. 

Is it worthwhile to see what is left?   Maybe. If you are a fan of fancy buildings. And you like ghosts. 
Please tolerate the area, which has complicated parking and very few people willing to provide public restrooms. 

Interested?  You can go to downtown in public transportation, as many people do today, and simply walk down to that magical stretch of Broadway. Don't worry, its relatively safe. While you are there, its worth seeing the Columbia Eastern Building, one of the nicest. Even if it never was a theatre.  

The City doesn't get it. As long as Downtown Los Angeles doesn't offer what the malls offer......

For more detailed info, go to the wikipedia page for The Theatre District. Los Angeles....

THE JOHN WAYNE STATUE IN BEVERLY HILLS

There are basically two well-known statues of John Wayne in the L.A area. This was the first one, with the guy on horseback, and near the corner of Wilshire Blvd and La Cienaga Bl in Beverly Hills. It was done by the famous artist Harry Jackson in 1984 .    There is a newer statue of John Wayne, without a horse, at John Wayne Airport.

The original work was very original. It was brightly painted, and had a motor at the base that allowed the statue to rotate. The City of Beverly Hills intervened, arguing that a moving statue distracted traffic. So Jackson switched off the motor....and complained until his death in 2011.

Many people find it funny that John Wayne, a symbol of conservative values, should be in front of the Flint Enterprises "Hustler" building. The story goes like this: John Wayne in his retirement did some famous advertisements for the Great Western Savings and Loan.  In those days, this building was the the S&L's main branch, and commisioned the statue.  Great Western became Wahington Mutual, and later on the publisher of Hustler Magazine bought the building. There has been some talk of having the statue moved, but......nothing has been done.

It is a very nice statue of John Wayne, but no big deal. Of more interest is the base. The two scenes are very original.....a cowboy trampled to death by a cattle stampede, and his solemn  burial.   Not the typical scenes of heroism one associates with statues.....and with John Wayne.

DON'T FORGET ANGEL'S FLIGHT!

Visiting Downtown LA?  Don't forget Angel's Flight, the shortest railway on earth!    

Today, it just carries tourists up and down a hill in downtown. But it has a rich history.   In the old days, when most of today's downtown was residential, it  used to be real transportation for the residents of classy Bunker's Hill.
Needless to say, it has appeared in many movies.   For the complete story, click this link

 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Angels_Flight

The original cars have been lovingly restored, and are worth seeing. 

How to get there?  From Grand Av, next to the Wells Fargo headquarters you have California Plaza.  The station is there.  Or you can go to the Broadway station and use the railway to go up to California Plaza.   

One way fare is 50 cents. 

WHY UNION STATION IS SPECIAL

Los Angeles main train station is Union Station, built in 1939. It is called "the last of the great railway stations". 

  In the city of the car, it has for decades played a low profile role.....until today, when people in LA are getting tired of the long commutes and going towards public transportation in droves. Also the City, through Metro, has bought the station from the rail company that owned it and has given it a more prominent role in the transportation grid. With all this attention, the station is changing. For the better?  We will see. 

Why is it special?  Because it is one of the few places in LA where you can breath "old America"  You really are "transported" in time.  And the Art Deco style is fantastic!  

So yes, it is certainly worth a visit.  Olvera Street is just across the street, so you can kill two birds with the same trip.   

  For the big fans, the Los Angeles Conservancy has 2 hour detailed tours, third Saturday of each month, at 10am.  (323) 623-2489    $10.  www.laconservancy.org